Are you in the market for a hot tub?

When shopping for a new hot tub they may all start to look alike.

In a very general way all hot tubs are made up of the same thing: an acrylic shell, a synthetic wood cabinet, plumbing, pumps and a control panel. 

A couple things you may want to consider when purchasing a hot tub:

 

How long has the dealer and the manufacturer been in business?

 

Does the dealer provide the service directly or is it provided by a third party vendor?

How long is the warranty?  May I have a copy of the warranty to read over for myself?

Are the parts used to make up the hot tub manufactured in this country or will replacement parts need to be ordered from overseas? 

Is the hot tub delivered to the back yard or to the curb?

And of course most important of all how does that tub make you feel?

Is it possible to take a test soak in the tub? 

At the very least sit in it dry and see how it makes you feel. 

Pool Opening Instructions For All Types Of Pools

  1. If you use a solid pool cover, first drain off any standing water so that it doesn’t spill back into the pool.  Carefully remove the cover, sweep it and lay it out to dry.  Hose the cover down and clean with TSP or a cover cleaner.  Once it is thoroughly dry fold and store the cover in a clean, dry place out of sunlight.  Inspect the entire pool carefully for damage that may have taken place during the off-season.  Especially leaks or tears in the vinyl liner, or breaks and cracks in the plaster or tiles.  If needed, clean the waterline with a surface cleaner that is appropriate to your pool surface type.  If there are stains consult Classic Pool and Spa for possible remedies.  After inspection and any surface cleaning that needs to be done, add water untill the level reaches about halfway up the skimmer opening.  Remove any debris with a leaf net or leaf type vacuum.
  2. Assemble equipment; attach hoses; reinstall plugs in pumps, filters and heaters.  Replace lid on hair and lint pot.  Close bleeder valve on heater.  Return eyeball fittings, skimmer and skimmer baskets to appropriate place.
  3. Remove any plugs from returns and skimmers.  Fill equipment with water, open valves and start system (not the heater).  Note:  If pool has not been covered and has debris in the bottom use a leaf type vacuum to remove debris.  DO NOT attempt to vacuum debris through filtration system!
  4. Check for leaks in the equipment.  O’rings, gaskets and pump seals may need to be replaced or lubed.
  5. If filter was not cleaned at the end of last season clean using a filter cleaner in order to remove hardened deposits, which can hamper filter performance.  Follow directions for sand or cartridge filters on the bottle.  Brush the pool walls and floor.  If pool water is clear, follow step 6, if not go to step 7.
  6. Vacuum the pool.  Run circulation system for 6-8 hours, and then bring a water sample to Classic Pool and Spa for a FREE computerized water analysis.  Hint:  Make a list of the chemicals you have, including approximate amounts of each.  This will save you a trip!  Follow instructions on the printout.
  7. Before treating for algae be sure there is no metal content in the water, because the treatment may cause metals to stain the pool.  You can do this by bringing a pint of water into our store for a FREE analysis.
  8. Shock the pool with Super Chlorinator (1lb. Per 10,000 gallons) and add an algaecide treatment (see label for manufacturers instructions).  Add during the evening hours for best results.  Pump and filter should be running, filter should be on by -pass mode.
  9. Immediately after adding chemicals brush pool walls and floor.  Brush, brush, brush.
  10. A settling (flocculating) agent can then be used to help remove the dead algae.  Add settling agent, circulate pump for 4 hours, shut pump off over night.
  11. Be sure to add additional water to the pool so the pump does not run dry.
  12. With filter on the waste position vacuum dead algae out onto the ground.
  13. Clean filter, brushes, all equipment, accessories, swim suits, etc., to prevent algae from reoccurring.
  14. Make sure to add regular chlorine immediately and keep level at 1.0 – 3.0 ppm to keep algae from returning.  A monthly/weekly algaecide treatment is advisable throughout the season.
  15. Once you have balanced your water and have established the correct sanitizer level, you are ready to swim!

Instructions For Removing Visible Algae At Start Up

A three-day procedure may be necessary for removing algae from the swimming pool.

  1. Before treating, be sure there is no metal content in the water, because the treatment may cause metals to stain the pool.  You can do this by bringing a pint of water into our store for a free analysis.
  2. Shock the pool with Super Chlorinator (1lb. Per 10,000 gallons) and an algaecide treatment (see label for manufacturers instructions).  Add during the evening hours for best results.  Pump and filter should be running, filter should be on by-pass mode.
  3. Immediately after adding chemicals brush pool walls and floor.  Brush, brush, brush.
  4. A settling (flocculant) agent can then be used to help remove the dead algae.  Algae must be dead, no more green before adding the settling agent.  Add settling agent, circulate pump for 4 hours, shut pump off over night.
  5. Be sure to add additional water to the pool so the pump does not run dry.
  6. With the filter in the waste position vacuum the dead algae out of the pool and onto the ground.
  7. Clean filter, brushes, all equipment, accessories, swim suits, etc., to prevent algae from reoccurring.
  8. Make sure to add regular chlorine immediately and keep level at 1.0 – 3.0 ppm to keep algae from returning.  A monthly/weekly algaecide treatment is advisable throughout the season.

If you have any questions please call Aloha at 503-642-4795 or Gladstone at 503-656-0021.

Vacuuming Your Pool

Q. How often do I need to vacuum my pool?
A. Vacuuming should be done as often as you think. Normally, once a week is sufficient. Generally speaking, the more a pool is used the LESS vacuuming it needs. It’s pretty simple. Some pool owners enjoy vacuuming on a nice sunny summer morning. Many of our customers use a good automatic pool vacuum to do this work for them. Even so, a good manual vacuuming once a month is good.

Q. How do I vacuum an in-ground or above-ground swimming pool?
A. Follow these steps:

  1. If your pool is equipped, be sure that the valve on the suction line coming into the pump is selected for the port (either skimmer or lower suction fitting) you will be using to vacuum.
  2. Attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head (the piece with the brushes or wheels on it). The better quality vacuum hoses come with a swivel end to prevent tangling of the hose.  Be sure that this is the end that is attached to the vacuum head; if not the system will draw air & not work properly.
  3. Make sure the hose is secure and the vacuum head is firmly attached to the pole.
  4. Place the vacuum head, hose & pole into the deep end of the pool (make sure one end of the pole is sticking out of the water!)
  5. Take the UN-attached end of the vacuum hose & hold it in front of one of the water return fittings.  This will fill the hose with water & prevent binding of the pump with air.  You know you’ve got enough water in the hose when the vacuum head bubbles up to the top.
  6. Put your hand over the end of the hose to keep the water IN.
  7. Place the skimmer basket adapter on top of the skimmer basket.  Always use a basket to prevent the ossible suction of a large object from getting stuck in the skimmer or in the underground line.
  8. If vacuuming through a lower suction without a basket, use a leaf trap.
  9. After you have placed the hose on the adapter fitting you will probably notice a sudden drop in filter activity.  This is normal.  The filter system is just re-adjusting itself to the change in suction.  Let it operate for about 30 to 90 seconds.  It should automatically bleed any air out of its system and return to normal operation.  You’ll hear the sound becoming “normal” again.
  10. Vacuum away!

Troubleshooting:

No Suction – The hose has come off of the basket, the filter has lost its prime (not sucking water) or the hose has a leak (make sure you’ve got the proper end of the hose on the vac head).  If you have more than one suction line, be sure you’re drawing from the proper one.

Dirty Water Returning To The Pool – If you have a sand filter, DO NOT BACKWASH THE FILTER BEFORE VACUUMING.  Backwashing stirs up the sand & prevents good trapping of dirt for several HOURS.  In cartridge or DE filters, this rarely happens.

 I Vacuum For A Few Minutes Then It Doesn’t Work Anymore – How dirty is the pool?  If it’s REALLY dirty, you may be better off vacuuming to direct waste (for sand filters) or otherwise vacuuming directly out of the pool by by-passing the filter.

Hot Tub Flush Procedure

In order to properly flush your hot tub, you must take the following steps:

  1.  Remove the filter, clean using a Filter Cleaner.
  2. Drain the hot tub, don’t forget to turn the power off.
  3. Refill hot tub to 1/2 inch above the “high water” mark.
  4. Add at least 100ppm of Chlorine to the hot tub.*
  5. Cover the hot tub.
  6. Circulate the water at a maximum rate of 30-45 minutes.
  7. While water is circulating, turn the blowers/air on and off every 5 minutes.
  8. Drain the hot tub.
  9. While hot tub is draining, rinse the sides several times.
  10. Clean hot tub with a Surface Cleaner.
  11. Remove excess water.
  12. Refill, replace filter, balance, start-up

* In order to deliver 100ppm of Chlorine use the following measurements:

Ounces per 100 Gallons
CalHypo – 65% 2.2
Lithium Hyo – 35% 3.8
Sodium Dichlor – 56% 2.5
Sodium Hypochlorite – 12% 15 fluid oz.
Sodium  Hypochlorite – 5.25% 35 fluid oz.